What better way to enjoy the beautiful countryside of North Yorkshire than by taking a ride on the North York Moors Railway, one of Britain’s most iconic heritage railways. First opened in 1836, the line runs from the pretty market town of Pickering to the magnificent coastal resort of Whitby. The twenty-four mile track wends its way through a varied landscape of forestry, open moorland and picturesque villages.
The railway was planned in 1831 by George Stephenson, no less, as a means of carrying goods and people to and from the coast. Initially, the railway was designed to be used by horse drawn carriages with a rope-worked system at the steep incline at Beck Hole. The problem of the very marshy crossing at Fen Bog was eventually solved by laying down a bed of timbers and sheep fleeces! Still in use today. The 120 yards (110 meters) tunnel at Grosmont is still believed to be one of the oldest rail tunnels in England.
In its first year of operation, the railway transported 10,000 tonnes of stone and 6.000 passengers. Passengers could pay 1/- to sit the roof of a coach and 1/3d to sit inside. The journey from Pickering to Whitby took two and a half hours.
Steam eventually superseded the horses and little changed to the service until the 1960s. The Beeching Act of 1965 spelt doom for the line as it was due to be axed. Fortunately, the North York Moors Railway Preservation Society stepped in and saved the railway. Now operated by a charitable trust with a mix of fulltime staff and many hundreds of enthusiastic volunteers, the railway is now one of North Yorkshire’s favourite tourist attractions.
There are plenty of places of interest to explore along the route of the railway. Starting at the southern terminus, the thriving market town of Pickering boasts a ruined castle, rural life museum and an historic parish church with unusual Medieval wall paintings.
Leaving Pickering behind, the first stop on the line is the small countryside station of Levisham which is situated two miles from the actual village. The area is ideal for walking with many designated footpaths. For the really hardy walker, a request stop can be made for Newton Dale Halt. From this remote platform, the keen hiker can follow one of the many trails through Cropton Forest.
One of the most popular stations to alight at is Goathland. For the younger generation, this was the location of Hogsmeade in some of the early Harry Potter films. Fans of the 1960s TV drama, “Hearbeat”, will recognise the place as the fictional village of Aidensfield. Take a walk through the village and look out for The Aidensfield Arms, Scripps’ Garage and the Aidensfield Stores where the iconic blue Ford Anglia police car is parked up.
Grosmont is a real must for the railway enthusiast. Here you can visit the running shed and view the stationary engines. Also open to the public is the deviation shed which houses locomotives and rolling stock. The station and all its facilities have been restored to their former 1952 British Rail glory.
Finally, the end of the line beckons with the historic seaport of Whitby. Cross the Swing Bridge over the River Esk and explore the old town with its quaint fishermen’s cottages, narrow wynds and alleys, plethora of cafes and interesting small independent shops. Why not climb the 199 steps to St Mary’s Parish Church and sit in one of the old box pews or wander round the ruins of Whitby Abbey and admire the fabulous view of the North Sea from the headland. Whitby has strong links with the great explorer and seaman, Captain James Cook. You can visit the house in Grape Lane, now the Captain Cook Museum, where he lived for the years when he was studying and working for his Master Mariner’s License. On a sunny day there is nothing nicer than buying a bucket and spade and making sandcastles on the beach or dipping your toes in the briny waves.
The North York Moors Railway operates daily services from April to October with special events at Christmas and other designated times of the year. 2025 is the 200th anniversary of the birth of the modern railway. Join in the celebrations and take a trip down memory with friends and family on North Yorkshire’s own wonderful contribution to the railway era.
Article contributed by Jenny Denton, Yorkshire Blue Badge Guide: https://yorkshiresbestguides.co.uk/project/jenny-denton/